Although every pilgrim walks at their own pace, our rhythms also intersect throughout the day. This routine starts in the albergues, which expect us to vacate before 8 am. Early risers are rustling through their backpacks before 6 am, preparing to make a pre-dawn start, so there’s no need to set an alarm. Susan and I usually eat a quick breakfast and set off before 7.30 am. We also have a ‘second breakfast’ at about 9.30 and sometimes ‘elevenses’, plus lunch before 1 pm. If the walk is 20-something km, then we hope to arrive at about 2 and if it is closer to 30km, we aim to arrive by 3. The next task is to find a bed, shower, hand-wash clothes and get dinner. We are in bed by 9 pm, seeking sleep before the snoring starts.
Most days we cross paths with familiar people who we either know by name or recognize from the path. This group has become a source of wisdom and solace, as we share similar physical and psychological challenges. Tom is walking with grief for a lost relationship, Shiela and Mo are commemorating a loved sister who walks with them in spirit, Laura is challenging the limitations of a chronic illness, Hans is recovering from a heart attack and Melody is celebrating her 80th birthday. Many are newly retired or between jobs. There is no physical privacy on the trail and no such thing as ‘eavesdropping’ as you walk along narrow tracks or share small living spaces. Most pilgrims openly discuss their reason for taking this long walk and the challenges they have encountered. Betty, a tiny Spanish-American, has developed terrible blisters. One GP in a small town said that her feet ‘just weren’t made for walking’, but the next one was kinder and made more practical suggestions. Betty will take the bus and walk in shorter stages until her feet heal.
Each conversation offers potential wisdom for the trail but you still need to apply the knowledge. I have been suffering from heat rash on my feet and although people have made management suggestions, I still haven’t achieved a timely intervention. Listening closely to my body and stopping at the first niggle is my new ambition.
Then there is ‘walking wisdom’ that has macro applications. My favourite so far was overheard as we walked from Pamplona to Obanos. It was a cold day, so we rugged up with multiple layers for the start. Soon hot under our vests and windcoats, we stripped off when the sun came out. A few kilometres later when it turned dreary, we covered up again. Observing the process, one experienced walker offered the catchphrase:
‘Be bold, start cold’.
I tried starting cold and it made for an uncomfortable first kilometre, but then it proved efficient and effective. With a 10-kilo pack on your back, it is much easier to pull off a beanie than a jacket.
So, ‘Be bold, start cold’ is my new mantra. And this wise saying has wide application.
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